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The Westmorland Way 6

The bridge over Trout Beck

The bridge over Trout Beck

Troutbeck (Windemere YHA) to Kendal (15 miles) 

The fine day and crowds of the day before were left behind on what was a strange old days trail walking through to Kendal.  We had to retrace our steps from the busy hostel, back down the road to Troutbeck.  The morning was overcast, cold and grey.  Fortunately it was calm as we reached the village and regained the path, dropping down an old track to cross the Trout beck before an early stiff climb up to the road on the other side to warm us up.  We followed the road for a short distance before taking to a green track, passing by a lovely old Larch and some more fine views over Windermere.

Looking back over the village of Troutbeck

Looking back over the village of Troutbeck

The tracks here were obviously much quieter as we were heading away from the honey pot sites, although there were still one or two others out and about.  The route was now much more like the first couple of days, back to a pleasant meander through fields, skirting a number of farms, some with the typical chimney stacks that seem to be peculiar to this part of the country.

A green track and Larch

A green track and Larch

It wasn’t long before the tranquillity of the morning was broken on the approach to the main Kendal to Windermere road.  It took a few minutes to get across the road, having to wait for a suitable break in the endless flow of traffic as the rain started to fall from the unchanging grey sky.  The waterproofs came on, it was the steady persistent rain that soaks everything, and we left the road behind, passing through a very muddy community woodland.

A last look at Windermere

A last look at Windermere

The branch line into Windermere was crossed, next to what looked like an old, and rather attractive mill race.  The climb up to School Knot began, first through a housing estate, then up an old lane.  Down came the rain still, and to make matters worse the wind was picking up as well.  By the time we reached School Knot and reacquainted ourselves with the Dales Way, it was pouring, and not to put too fine a point on it – horrible.

A Typical farm

A Typical farm

The walkers cafe in the farm at Hag End seemed to have long gone, dashing our slim hopes that it may have been open for a cup of tea.  As we passed the place was in darkness, all signs that it had once been a cafe gone, and even had an angry dog inside that had a good bark at us.

We said goodbye to the Dales Way and continued down a muddy track which petered out in a large damp area.  Eventually we found the exit and continued along miserably over rough ground, which turned into a track.  It soon crossed a quiet B road, then turned into a green lane alongside what looked like a fishery.

The Mill Race

The Mill Race

At Brow Head we turned onto a narrow lane and took refuge in a convenient tractor shed next to the road as the rain came down with a vengeance for about 10 minutes.  Suddenly it stopped, and we continued on up a lane then through some fields which were now giving fine but very moody views, especially of Scout Scar in the distance.

Between showers

Between showers

This was a lovely little section as we gradually descended towards Underbarrow, the transition from moorland to pastureland a marked one.  Once again the rain came down and we were forced to take shelter in another open shed by the path.  With no sign of the weather abating we swiftly covered the kilometre or so to the local pub (the Punchbowl) – this time it was open.  Fortunately they had a stone floor as we were a tad soggy, pools of water forming under the table we were sitting at!

The high point of the day and a first glimpse of Scout Scar

The high point of the day and a first glimpse of Scout Scar

We stayed put until the rain stopped and for a while things started to clear and started our assault on Scout Scar, passing through some lovely estate grounds, including shooting butts, populated by a huge number of Pheasant.

It was a stiff climb up onto the Scar which was nothing short of spectacular.  The views were stunning in the now fading light, and the collection of stunted trees and shrubs gave it an otherworldly feel.  It was a delight to walk along the Scar, along with a surprising number of dog walkers and runners.  We soon turned off and began the walk into Kendal as darkness was falling.  Behind us, to round off the day, lightning was flashing but eerily without any thunder.

On the Scar in the fading light

On the Scar in the fading light

At least it started off like that!

As we crossed the Kendal bypass a huge flash of lightning was followed by a loud bang and accompanying hailstones.  Soon the road was like a river and we were crunching through about a half inch of hailstones on the ground and some flash flooding.

Walking along the Scar

Walking along the Scar

We couldn’t help but find the situation funny, after a quite bizarre weather day, finally reaching the hostel in Kendal completely soaked through.

Day Rating 8/10

The day was a walk of three parts.  The early part was lovely, the middle section was a little uninteresting and the finale was just superb over Scout Scar.  On a balmy summer evening this would be a special place to linger.

The (rather blurry) hail in Kendal

The (rather blurry) hail in Kendal

We spent the night at Kendal Hostel, no longer a YHA but an independent.  The building has bags of character but has certainly seen better days.  In fact, the place was a little bit of a mess.  Still, we made up for it with a few decent pints in the Wetherspoons round the corner.  Cracking day!

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The Westmorland Way 5

Leaving Grasmere

Leaving Grasmere

Grasmere to Troutbeck (Windemere YHA) (11 miles)

This was a day I was really looking forward to.  The route on the map looked great, and we were to meet an old friend, the Cumbria Way, early on in the day.

Looking back at the Langdales

Looking back at the Langdales on the way to Ambleside

We had a good breakfast in the YHA and were away at a reasonable 0830, just as the sun was breaking through what had been a permanently dull grey sky, up until this point.  We passed through the village, which looked like it was well designed to cater for the thousands of tourists that must converge in Grasmere during the silly season.

The view opening up over Grasmere

The view opening up over Grasmere

It wasn’t long before we were on a steady climb up a green lane to start our traverse over Silver How to Chapel Stile.  Itwasn’t long before the views opened up over Grasmere with panoramic views towards Loughrigg Fell.  Several attractive Yews were passed before the end of the short climb amongst a rabbit warren of paths.  From there it was a short and spectacular descent down Mags Gill, crossing a steep sided gully and scree slope on an airy path which really came too soon.

Looking back towards Fairfield from yesterday

Looking back towards Fairfield from yesterday

Although still early, we stopped for a cup of tea and a spot of cake in Chapel Stile before setting off again, revisiting the

Grasmere

Grasmere

Cumbria Way.  The last time we walked the short section through to Elterwater it had been dark and we had just walked through from Keswick – a fantastic walk in its own right.  There was no time to stop in the fine pub here (to be fair it was still far too early) so we carried on following the route of the Cumbria Way, now surrounded by many day walkers out enjoying the fine weather.  Despite this, this little section is a delight to walk and the views are outstanding, bourne out by the number of professional looking photographers set up by Elter Water all pointing at the fells around Langdale.

Grasmere

Grasmere

It didn’t take long to reach Skelwith Force where the Cumbria Way left our route, crossing the River Brathey to head up towards Tarn Hows and Coniston, while we continued along past the waterfall.  We stopped to take some photos here, although it was so busy we had to wait for the path and rocks to clear before we could get down to take a few snaps.

Panorama above Grasmere

Panorama above Grasmere

 

From there it was only a few hundred yards into the village where it was difficult to resist the lure of a pint in one of the plethora of hotels.  This is obviously a tourist honey pot, being extremely busy even in early November.

It was a steep climb out the village up a narrow country lane towards Loughrigg Tarn.  Soon we turned off the road and were treated to a

The start of the airy descent into Chapel Stile

The start of the airy descent into Chapel Stile

well defined (and worn) bridleway taking us towards Ivy Crag.  It was a steady climb here and once again the views were quickly sneaking up on us.  Ivy Crag itself was a special place where, for the first time, the expanse of water that is Lake Windemere came into view.

This was an incredibly popular route with a steady stream of walkers heading in both directions, but it is no distraction from the fine views.  It is, however, quite a long and steep descent along a lane to the insanely busy Ambleside.  We stopped at the rather good Giggling Goose for a spud (lucky to get a table) before setting out on the last leg to Troutbeck.  Our route was quieter and away from the crowds as we headed south through the town before turning up a very narrow (and steep) lane right on the edge of town.  The route heads through some delightful National Trust woodland and is once again busy, despite the time getting well on into the afternoon.  Jenkin Crag was well worth a visit and we lingered here a while just enjoying the views over Windemere.  Better was yet to come though where the path left the woodland.  Simply said, this section is just stunning, especially on a clear day with the sun just beginning to dip in the sky.

Crossing the scree

Crossing the scree

As we reached the farm at High Skelghyll the path dropped into a dip and back up the other side.  On the path, coming the other way on the other side of the dip were some walkers, all of whom had a large orange object with them.

Chapel Stile

Chapel Stile

I commented that these things looked a lot like Space Hoppers from this distance.  The reply I got was “no, don’t be silly.  It’ll just be orange rucksacks”.  To be fair, I agreed.  Why would you have space hoppers out here?

Well, it turns out they were Space Hoppers. They weren’t using them as we passed (they may have just given up), had they been, it would have been up there as one of the stranger sights I’ve seen when out walking!

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From there it wasn’t far into Troutbeck, then a walk up the road to the YHA at High Cross Castle.

Above Skelwith Force

Above Skelwith Force

Day Rating 10/10

Skelwith Force

Skelwith Force

A quite sublime days walking.  One of the best individual sections of trail I think I have walked.  There are quite exceptional views all along the route, understandable then that much of the days route was very busy.

On the way to Ambleside

On the way to Ambleside

Brilliant!

Below Ivy Crag

Below Ivy Crag

Early view over Windermere

Early view over Windermere

Windermere

Windermere

 

 

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