Day 6
Boat of Garten to Aviemore 6 miles
The penultimate evening was spent in the Boat Hotel, situated next to the station, along with good food and beer. The place was surprisingly busy for a snowy December evening and there was a pleasant buzz around the place. It did mean a precarious walk back to the B&B, as the outside temperature dropped and the ground was began to freeze.
Boat of Garten Station
Breakfast was left until a civilised hour, with only six mile to walk we could afford to take our time. Not too much time, there was still a train to catch! We left around 9, after enjoying a breakfast side show of our host shouting at his theiving dog, who would pinch things from the kitchen worktop given any small oppertunity.
This was treacherous
Outside it was freezing, the clodest start so far. Overnight the snow had turned to ice, and both the road and pavement were like walking on a skating rink. Ice skates would’ve been more appropriate than walking boots!
Leaving Boat of Garten we passed a series of houses, all well spaced from each other along a metalled road. It was like learning to walk all over again, as we tottered on our way to Aviemore, the smallest slope becoming a major challenge. I love my walking poles!
The tarmac gradually turned to gravel, although it was difficult to tell where, and the houses thinned out, leaving the occasional isolated cottage, smoke gently rising from chimneys. A runner passed us coming the other way, and I thought we were daft until I saw him. A little further on a large human shaped mark in the snow betrayed where he had slipped an fallen over.
The path crossed under the railway and took to a rather attractive path leading over moorland. There were fantastic open views of the hills around us, they seemed to have crept close without us even noticing. I couldn’t help feeling a little disappointed too, there was a sense that the Speyside Way was just beginning to get really good.
Skis would have been better!
The railway was a companion for most of the walk, and I could just imagine the steam trains trundling past in the summer, full of happy tourists, trundling past. It was all quiet now though as we gradually approached Aviemore.
Snowy Path
We reached a golf course which, along with a few dog walkers, heralded our approach to the outskirts of Aviemore. It had also started to sleet, a quite horrible mix of rain and ice. It was now a case of heads down, as we crossed under the two railway lines, the first preserved, the second the main line, and skirted a housing estate to the main road through the town. As always on these walks busy traffic comes as a bit of a shock to the system after days of relative seclusion, and this was no different. Despite the weather there was a bustle about the town.
Hills looking very atmospheric
The waymarked route headed off across the road, part of the new extension towards Kincraig while we turned left to head down the mainstreet towards the station, the town looking rather gray and forlorn in the dreich weather. We’d left plenty of time to complete the walk, so with a couple of hours or so before our train, we investigated a couple of the outdoor shops, before settling down for some tea and a baked potato in a cafe as the sleet turned to heavy rain outside. We’d finished just in the nick of time!
Day Rating 7/10
While a short day a pleasant enough walk between Boat of Garten and Aviemore. The moorland section would be a delight in the summer with wildlife abounding, plus there is the railway interest as well.
Overall Rating 46/60 77%
I have to admit that my expectations for the Speyside Way were unusually low, mainly as I had a preconcieved idea that much of the walking was along old railway track bed, which I find tends to get very tedious. In the end it was only really the one day, and while at times, it did get a little boring, there was enough about the route to keep up interest – distilleries and preserved stations coming thick and fast.
The weather closing in near Aviemore (the camera didn’t like the sleet)
The rest of the route, however, was a very enjoyable hike without being spectacular. The initial coastal walk (the dolphins a real bonus), the pine forest, wildlife to mention just a few few things – the weather made things interesting too. It’s safe to say that my expectations were exceeded comfortably. All that remains is to complete the Tomintul Spur (a weekend jaunt) to complete the route. The only downside is that the route feels like it is just starting to get really good as you approach Aviemore, as you’re about to finish.
However, there is the potential to link in a longer walk with the (currently unwaymarked) East Highland Way which links from Aviemore to Fort William, giving a much more interesting route of around 150 miles, give or take.
It’s also a great trail to cut you’re teeth on if new to the game, as in general the walking is pretty gentle. The worst part was the enclosed path through the farmland, which was quite frankly a pain.
So overall, an enjoyable trail without being especially outstanding and perfect for any time of year. Oh, and there’s whisky. What’s not to like!
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